From the Black Sea to Tbilisi

Published on 09/23/2023 at 16:10

With the mosquitoes behind us, we were very reluctant to explore the Greater Caucasus region, and for good reason: the roads in Georgia can be dangerous for a number of reasons: driving doesn't really respect the rules of the road as we know them, and the tracks are narrow, where crossing between two cars can be dangerous, not to mention crossing with lorries! The tracks are rocky, rutted and sometimes run under rock faces or along vertiginous walls...

What's more, our combi doesn't cope well with the steep climbs, or else you have to negotiate them patiently at 10km/h. The road to the finish is a round trip. Our decision was made, so much for the spectacular mountain views, we were reasonable on this occasion.

We chose a canyon not far from a waterfall, the Martvili canyon. We found a dream bivouac on the banks of the river that flows straight down from the mountain: the water was icy, but the temperatures were extremely warm, so the balance was quickly struck. The children had a great time bathing and we explored the surrounding area on foot. As the days passed, the children marvelled at the animals that came to see us, which were anything but wild.

They christened a little piglet Gourmande, so interested is she in our food. She follows the children everywhere, including into cold water, swims with them, enjoys mud baths and feasts on what they feed her. She makes that little noise in the morning when she arrives to signal that she's happy to see them. It's an amazing relationship. There are also free-roaming horses and goats. Just like everywhere else in Georgia. The locals are adorable.

On our way out, we head for the waterfall, which is of course touristy, but very pretty. A local seems to be the car park warden, so we're not sure if we really "have" to pay, but we play along, thinking that it might make their lives better...

We set off to explore another canyon, Okatse Canyon, and found a nice spot by the river where we could still swim! Just great! As for the night, it was much more eventful: the winds started to blow hard, very hard, our shoes that had been left outside flew off and we struggled to find the crate that contained them. My man set off to find it, braving a steep slope that descended into the canyon. But yippee, he made it! But we won't be staying! One sleepless night is enough, not two! To make matters worse, the children inside the Combi didn't hear a thing! How can this be? We'd so much like to get back to that flawless sleep...

So, after a night of sleeplessness and shoe-fishing, we head for Koutaissi, the first large Georgian town we come across. We took it easy and had a typical meal: hamburgers in an American chain, well not the famous Mac Do, but the same kind!

The city is calm, the town centre pretty, and we even go so far as to play games in a shopping centre with the kids, the ultimate, they love it of course...

And a challenge spot for the evening, not far from the big city but still in the green, you don't want to push it! So, on the banks of a river, a small place frequented by locals, a small bridge to jump into the river, and two French families we met! The first was on holiday for 3 weeks, at the end of their trip, and it was a great meeting. The other family, by chance, we chatted to them on social networks from Turkey and followed each other with a view to meeting here in Georgia. But then we bumped into them as we were passing along the road. They have three little boys and have made the same decision as us to leave everything behind in France. We talked a lot and promised to follow each other and meet up again!

The river is really calm and the swimming is a real treat!

The next day, we woke up calmly, went shopping and filled up with water: it had all become a routine part of the day, and we were off to the next spot, where we planned to meet up with the little French family. Admittedly, it's on the banks of a river, but it doesn't really make you want to swim in it: the colour is really brown and the banks are very clayey...

But who cares, when you're in good company, the place isn't that important! The children all play together and it's good for everyone. A bit of socialising is always a moment of shared pleasure.

After this friendly break in the journey, we head for the capital, Tbilisi, for a whole heap of specialised shopping and the search for particular parts, in the hope of finding them... and also to receive the parcel from France containing the CPD, the famous sesame for our van.

We started with the post office, which said it would be open before 4pm on Saturday. OK, no problem opening, but although we called several times to make sure that the parcel was there, and that everything was in order, and that the answers were positive, we got stuck with a story about payment of customs clearance tax because the value we declared was over 300 euros. All this is due to the famous CPD... which we wanted to insure... too well ???? maybe? Perhaps... In short, we'll have no choice but to pay up... but we'll have to be able to do so, because it's an obstacle course! You have to go to the tax office, and the good news is that they won't be open on Monday because it's a bank holiday for them. So we'll have to wait until Tuesday...

Then we finally found some composite laths to replace those in the gallery. And that's that!

But we can't find a tap to change the one in the sink... another time!

And to wait patiently and tinker in peace, we found one of the most beautiful spots high up with an unobstructed view of the city, calm, in nature, without mosquitoes, incredible.

Tuesday arrives and we cross the city at the crack of dawn to be at the tax office when it opens to get a number to pay the tax. Bad luck for us, that centre is temporarily closed and we're sent to the other side of town, where we almost came from...

The number was obtained fairly quickly. Then back to the post office, which sends us to the bank after waiting, of course. In fact, the tax is paid at the bank, so we look for one, then a second, because at the first you have to open an account to pay the tax! We've seen it all.

Tax paid, with a few extra deductions of course, and back to the post office, which finally delivers the famous parcel. Alleluia, we've got it.

But as the day went on, I felt less and less well and became ill in the afternoon. So we stayed at another spot in Tbilisi near the lake to recover and prepare for the rest of the trip.

We had the worst downpour of our trip there and my man ended the evening soaked from head to toe, because we hadn't had time to set up our little extra room.

So the next two days will be dedicated to recovery...